in damascus we spent some time exploring the ummayad mosque, which is one of the oldest mosques in the world and also one of the largest. john the baptist’s head is encased there, as is that of saladin, one of the greatest conquerers in islamic history. also, the head of hussein (one of the early shi’ites), which was actually pretty intense because there were hundreds of pilgrims from iran all pushing and shoving to see this head and weeping, prostrating in front of it, etc.
