cluj-napoca is the largest city (about 400,000) in the romanian region of transylvania. it isn’t really a destination for tourists, but i really enjoyed it. it has many university students and thus a youthful, optimistic vibe. in the center of the city they are currently building a massive, ornate romanian orthodox church – this is perhaps one of the only places in europe where churches are being built. i stayed at the aging atrium boutique hotel, which was amazing value – for under $30 i got a massive soviet-era room with gold-plated wallpaper, countless mirrors and multiple gaudy overstuffed couches.
the city has a very nice downtown square where there was an outdoor film festival occurring. i stopped into a local hostel to inquire about laundry, and they offered to do it for me there. i went to a fascinating zoological museum at the babes-bolyai university, and the nearby can’t-miss salina turda salt mine turned amusement park. cluj-napoca is a great place!