we took the fast train (1 hour) from rome to naples, where we spent a full day. it is known as a gritty, densely congested city still run by the mafia, and it was very fun to explore. amazing narrow streets throughout, including via san gregorio, or christmas alley, where artisans built ornate nativity scenes called presepe. there are also a number of underground tunnels in naples, which among other uses, were used as shelters during world war two.