i flew to lima, peru for 2 days! it was very quick, but i like to think i saw and did almost as much as humanly possible in that amount of time. lima has become famous as a culinary hotspot, so one of the main things to do there is eat! i had multiple meals of amazing ceviche and pisco sours (punto azul was my favorite restaurant). peruvians only eat ceviche made from fish caught that morning, usually chilean sea bass, and it is not even served after 3 pm or so because it has to be that fresh! i also discovered my new favorite fruit, lucuma, which grows in the amazon and tastes like buttery caramel. and a local favorite in lima are cow hearts grilled on skewers.
unfortunately, peru has suffered tremendously during the covid pandemic, sustaining the highest per capita covid mortality rate in the world. 99% of people were still wearing masks all the time even outside, often double masking. one must even be double masked during the flight to peru. they have had to build massive new cemeteries in the suburbs of lima to handle all the deceased people.
lima has a lot going on, and has a very bohemian vibe. in the barranco neighborhood they love street art, live music, and craft beer. there is also a large chinese influence, with over 1 million chinese-peruvians in lima alone, and a huge food scene called chifa, a fusion of peruvian and chinese cuisines. lima is a huge, multi-dimensional city where one could spend months and still be discovering new things. i hope to return sometime soon!
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the monastery of san francisco in old lima has a lot of history associated with it. most interestingly, 30-40 thousand people were buried beneath it in catacombs from the 1600s to the 1800s. you need to sign up for a tour to go down into the catacombs and see the bones.
san francisco monastery, lima, perucatacombs of san francisco monastery, lima, perucatacombs of san francisco monastery, lima, perucatacombs of san francisco monastery, lima, peru
this private museum is devoted to the pre-columbian era. it is small, but very well curated. they had a special exhibition when i was there on pre-columbian erotic antiquities featuring very large stone phalluses, so no kids allowed. there is a very nice garden courtyard at the museum as well.
larco pre-columbian museum, lima, perularco pre-columbian museum gardens, lima, perularco pre-columbian museum gardens, lima, perularco pre-columbian museum gardens, lima, peru
crossing the amazon, leticia, colombia to santo rosa, peru
my foray into the amazon took me to two fascinating locales: the tres fronteras region where the borders of colombia, peru and brazil meet, and then to manaus, brazil, the largest city in the amazon. i flew from bogota to leticia, colombia, in the far southeastern corner of the country. it is amazing how large colombia is; leticia is almost 2000 km from the caribbean coast, and deep in the rainforest – 700 km from the nearest colombian road. at the airport they seemed to have instituted a new $10 “tourist tax” – not much choice on that one. i walked the sweaty one kilometer or so into town, to the anaconda hotel. the town is famous for its central square, where thousands of chirping birds congregate nightly at sunset. i was able to climb the steeple of the town church to watch this, which was amazing, then eat an amazonian fish for dinner! leticia is an impressively bustling town for being so geographically isolated; half of the town lives on homes on stilts over the amazonian marsh.
the tres fronteras region is composed of the towns of leticia, tabatinga (brazil), and the island town of santa rosa (peru). one can travel freely between the towns, but must clear immigration before moving further into any of these countries. i arrived on a friday night, and when i told the staff at the anaconda hotel that i planned to fly out of the tabatinga airport the next afternoon, they had some stressful and unexpected news – apparently the immigration offices were all closed for the weekend. if i couldn’t stamp into brazil then i couldn’t catch my flight to manaus, and i couldn’t get back to work on time, and it was going to cost a ton to backtrack. i didn’t get much sleep, and before even eating breakfast in the morning i jumped on a motorcycle taxi across the border into brazil to try to figure it out for myself. sure enough, the brazilian immigration office was closed, with a sign in portuguese telling me to come back at 9am monday morning. i asked around and tried to google solutions to no avail, and was feeling quite despondent. then somehow, by the grace of God, i chanced upon a nearby police station, and amazingly, one of the officers was able to stamp me into brazil! next time don’t try to do this on a weekend, he told me.
after that scare, i had a few hours to breathe, so i went back to leticia and took a boat taxi across the amazon river to peru! the private motorized wood longboat ride cost $1, and took about 20 minutes. crossing the amazon was surreal; the widest, muddiest river imaginable. i walked around the sleepy one-road town of santa rosa, peru, before heading back on another ferry. from santa rosa, one could also take a ferry westward to iquitos, which takes about a day. i was a bit confused as to whether tabatinga was in the brazilian or colombian timezone, so playing it safe ended up arriving at the sleepy tabatinga airport way early. at least i had my stamp!
