a pilgrimage to feed the british monkeys

gibraltar, united kingdom

we had almost two weeks of vacation in morocco! we rented a tiny car, which was amazing. i really wanted to make it to gibraltar and ann needed to get some work done, so upon arriving, she took the train to marrakesh and i drove north to take the ferry to europe! morocco has a pretty impressive toll expressway system, so it actually only took a few hours to drive to a town called fnideq, at the northern tip of morocco. after spending the night there and finding a place to safely park the car, i made my way to the border of an enclave of spain in north africa called ceuta! it occupies a tiny peninsula of north africa, and is one of a few remaining enclaves of spain on the continent. spanish sovereignty over these areas is contested by morocco, so it remains a sore spot between the two countries. the other major enclave a few hundred kilometers to the east is called melilla. and interestingly, there is also a third small enclave between melilla and ceuta that is just one small island a few hundred meters square, which is permanently staffed by a contingent of the spanish military to protect it. the short border between morocco and ceuta is very heavily fortified with a huge wall, as many migrants have attempted to make it into the european union this way, often by rushing the border en masse. at the time of my crossing, there were thousands lined up on the moroccan side – i was told they were headed to europe for work. the city of ceuta is an interesting fusion of spanish and moroccan culture, and has a pretty substantial population of about 80,000. from there, i jumped on one of the frequent one hour long ferries to algericas, spain. for whatever reason, i love ferries! once in algericas, one walks to the downtown bus station and takes a 45 minute bus ride to la linea, which is one the border with gibraltar. by this time it was about noon.

approaching gibraltar is fascinating. spain gives way to british accents and very british things such as many posters advertising the territory’s upcoming open snooker tournament. gibraltar is perhaps even more proud of its british heritage than is the typical town in england, because it is so isolated and has a rich history. indeed, gibraltar has been british longer than america has been american. immediately upon crossing the border, one finds themselves walking on winston churchill avenue across the centre of the single runway of the peninsula’s international airport! signs advise to “walk fast” and watch out for landing aircraft, of which there are just a couple each day.

gibraltar airport

it takes about half an hour to walk into the pedestrianized centre, where i got a huge fried british breakfast of blood pudding and mashers and ten other fried things. i then took a cable car to the top of the rock. the view was spectacular, and there are famous barbary macaque monkeys up there! they are very tame and numerous. they were brought from africa at some point, and when they started to dwindle following world war II more were brought from africa to replenish their population. today they are not having any trouble with all the tourists feeding them. despite being basically just a huge rock with forest on one side and a cliff on the other, the rock of gibraltar has a fascinating amount of history. there is a massive cave of st. michael that is seemingly endless, and in which there is evidence of neolithic human habitation. there are massive stalagmites and stalactites which are quite impressive. there are also many kilometers of man-made tunnels, built for strategic protection of the rock in the 1700s and during world war II, many of which can be explored. the tunnels from the 1700s open out of numerous holes in the cliff face, where cannons were fired from. there was enough space in the tunnels to house and provide for up to 1600 men for one year. very fun to explore.

st. michael’s cave, gibraltar

after exploring the rock, i headed back the way i had come – back across the runway, the border, bus to algericas, ferry to ceuta, border crossing to morocco, into the rented car which had survived the day, and then as far as a terrible hotel in kenitra just north of rabat that night. an excellent day!

gibraltar world war two tunnels
gibraltar
rock of gibraltar

togo excursions

wli waterfall, togo-ghana border

i was volunteering in togo through an ngo called world medical mission. while generally they are a great organization, they were super paranoid about not letting their volunteers use public transportation or even taxis, which is outrageous – as a result i am probably going to avoid volunteering with them again. on top of this, the hospital is in a very rural area without many nearby towns, so i didn’t get out as much as i would have liked to. oh well.

i was able to go on a few daytrips on the weekends. on one saturday a group of us visited visited a nearby boarding school for blind children, run by the same mission agency as the hospital. it is very cool – they provide great education for the children (and even adults), who are mostly blind due to trachomatis flies, the most common etiology of blindness in africa. they are taught braille at the school, and there are textured posters on the walls of the school for teaching various things like topography on maps and different organ systems of the body. they are also taught how to weave furniture which they can continue to do once they leave to provide a service to their communities. there are some new missionaries running the center who are really doing some great work there. they also have an aquaponics farm they showed us, where they grow tilapia fish and use the waste to grow plants such as lettuce and strawberries. we then went to a french restaurant in kpalime called chez fanny, which was pretty good.

aquaponics project, kpalime

one sunday myself and some medical students climbed one hour up a nearby mountain to attend a church up there. we were soaked with sweat upon arrival so needed to change. despite being at the top of a mountain without electricity, each of the approximately 20 people who showed up were wearing their sunday best. they were very welcoming.  speaking of, it has been nice having the medical students around – there have been three of them at any given time. one is going into pediatrics so i have been able to do some teaching and he has been very helpful with our pediatric patients at the hospital.

on our last weekend, we took a long drive and then a long hike to wli falls, a very high waterfall right on the border with ghana. so – despite my previous successful endeavor to visit ghana, i got to step across the border again! we went swimming beneath the waterfall and the water falling hundreds of feet created a crazy wind tunnel of mist. it was great.

groupies, togo

there has been a lot of fomenting unrest in togo while we’ve been here, with widespread protests against the autocratic leader, faure gnassingbe. between him and his father, the family has been ruling togo since the 1960s, and people are starting to get tired of it. compared to its immediate neighbors, togo is relatively poor. the reasons for this are of course multifactorial, but it is at least partially due to government mismanagement. there are weekly protests including in the nearby city of kpalime. these are generally very peaceful, but during some there have been people killed by government security forces. this is part of a wider trend across africa right now, dubbed the “african spring.”  my amazing wife ann is actually writing about this while here, so has been traveling around the region while i’ve been at the hospital.

protests, kpalime, togo
togo
downtown lome, togo
early morning departure, lome airport (brand new, chinese built)

lassa scare

hospital baptiste biblique, tsiko, togo

about a week after arriving in togo, i examined a six year old girl who presented with about one week of fever, diarrhea, emesis, and diffuse abdominal pain. i didn’t think much of it, and didn’t use gloves, because they aren’t really readily available in the clinic unless you go looking for them. i have been using them since. we did some blood work, and admitted her to the hospital. she tested negative for malaria and typhoid fever, the two most common etiologies of fever here. she also had significant pancytopenia (low white blood cells, red blood cells, and platelets), which is strange. we started her on the empiric antibiotic treatment for typhoid fever, but after two days she continued to have persistently high fevers, and her three year old sister also started developing the same symptoms. her sister was found to have the same lab results, and both also had very high transaminase (liver enzymes) levels as well. all these symptoms are consistent with viral hemorrhagic fever, specifically a terrible disease called lassa fever. to top it off, the younger girl started having profuse blood in her stool.

lassa fever is an arenavirus endemic to certain parts of west africa, spread by the aerosolized urine of a certain species of rat, which come into people’s homes during the dry seasons. it can also be spread between people via any body fluids. it was first described in the 1970s, and was named after a city in northeastern nigeria where there was a major outbreak. it is a viral hemorrhagic fever similar to ebola and marburg virus, as in addition to the nonspecific symptoms of fever, abdominal pain, diarrhea, emesis, and throat pain, etc, it can also cause bleeding from mucosal membranes and hypovolemic shock and end organ failure. so pretty scary. it has even been cited as a potential agent for bioterrorism. about 80% of people who get it actually don’t get sick enough to be hospitalized, but the mortality rate is about 50% for those who need hospitalization. even more scary, well over 50% of nosocomial infections (person-to-person in a healthcare setting) are fatal.

there had never been a positive case of lassa fever in this part of togo before. however, antibody studies have been done suggesting that the majority of togolese have been exposed to the virus at some point, meaning it exists and just hasn’t been isolated, likely simply due to lack of testing. the first person confirmed to have died from lassa fever in togo was an american physician assistant who was working in a mission hospital in northern togo and fell ill last year. he continued to deteriorate, and was evacuated to germany, where he sadly died. they then discovered he had lassa fever. he didn’t have any known exposures, so no one really knows how he contracted it.

after the girls had been sick for a while and after much discussion among the hospital staff, it was decided to send a blood sample to the central lab of the government in lome to test for lassa fever. it became apparent that it is quite the process. the local authorities have to sign off on the test being done after a meeting, and a medical provider has to escort the blood sample all the way to lome as it is considered biohazardous. this all took the better part of a week to arrange. once the blood sample finally made it there the confirmatory test by pcr was relatively quick. i read everything on the internet about lassa fever. interestingly, a number of studies about transmission in exposed, unprotected individuals came out of germany last year after the missionary from togo was evacuated to there with what was then an undifferentiated illness. there is an antiviral medication which helps some once infected, but it doesn’t really work very well, and isn’t exactly available on short notice to a rural hospital in togo.

thankfully, the test came back negative! i must admit though, in the intervening days i was quite scared that i might get it (and if i did, more likely than not, die an agonizing death). because the disease starts with nonspecific symptoms like sore throat, diarrhea and fever, i was constantly thinking that i might be coming down with it. i prayed more frequently and fervently than i normally do. it was an important reminder for me of the fragility of life, and that life can end before we want it to, a reality that usually isn’t as apparent in the west as it is in africa. i really needed to trust in God, and be reminded that my faith in Him is all i really have that matters, and all i really need. there are so many frivolous concerns in our lives that just don’t really matter when you think you might die soon. thank you to my amazing wife who comforted me when i was really on edge. we still don’t know what the girls had, but it was almost certainly something viral and nasty. thankfully they started to do better and we were able to send them home.

tsiko, togo

ghana or bust!

heady stuff, kpalime, togo

one saturday during my rotation in togo i decided to go visit ghana. i had obtained a visa in advance and wanted to make sure i at least used it. jumped on the back of a motorcycle from the hospital to the main road, then took a shared taxi to the main town, kpalime. there, i found my way to the taxi park, where dozens of taxi drivers compete for your attention. i procured one with limited effective communication to drive me to the ghana border, which was supposed to be about 20 minutes south of kpalime. from there i was hoping to find another taxi to go the ghanaian city of ho, which should have been about another hour or so to the south.

once in the taxi, however, we started going in the opposite direction, up a mountain to the northwest of kpalime. the taxi driver was insistent that he was taking me on the most direct route to ho, and i eventually stopped asking and just sat back, as i admittedly didn’t really know if he was wrong. we went through a town called klouto on the crest of a mountain, which apparently is a worldwide destination for butterfly enthusiasts. the togo border police had a gate set up there, through which they let us pass. we then continued on an ever-narrower dirt path for a number of miles, with no other cars or even pedestrians for miles. at this point i had no idea where this guy was taking me. eventually after about an hour, we arrived at a border post though! the guards sprang into action, breaking out their collection of passport stamps and ceremonially carrying out a huge ledger book. i saw that the most recent entry of someone who had used a passport to make the crossing was three weeks earlier. they asked where i was going, but this really intensified on the ghanaian side. i told them that i just had always really wanted to visit ghana, which is true, and they thought that was hilarious. through long deliberations in the local tribal language ewe with my taxi driver, the taxi driver and the ghanaian border guard decided i would visit the nearby border town before returning to the border post and kpalime. it also became clear that the taxi driver was going to charge me much more than we had initially agreed upon. sadly i lacked the leverage of using another taxi at this point, as there wasn’t one for miles, the nearest city was now more than two hours away, and getting back to the hospital after dark or the next day wasn’t an option.

we continued to the nearest town in ghana, dafar. i took a walk around the dusty market area and witnessed a funeral procession. the taxi then made a few stops so the driver could pick up some things for his friends, including a large, two foot long object concealed within a garbage bag, for which money was exchanged. when i was asked what it was, he said it was “soup.” it was again exchanged for money with the togolese border guard on the way back. the border formalities on the trip back were faster now that they knew me, and were complicated only by the togolese border guard’s insistence on a bribe “for beer.” when he refused to give my passport back for a few minutes i finally caved and gave him the money with the insistence that he use it only for beer. i then asked if i could take a picture of a spray painted sign that said “welcome to togo.” he told me no, it was against regulations. i then asked him of collecting bribes was also against regulations, and he gave me my money back. cool! that was my couple hours in ghana, and i made it back to the hospital is tsiko before dark!

kpalime market, togo

first weeks in togo

kpalime, togo

as an elective during my third year of residency, i am able to do a month of global health! i arranged to come to togo, west africa. i am spending one month at the karolyn kempton memorial christian hospital, also called hospital baptiste biblique (hbb). it is a missionary-run hospital in tsiko, near adeta, togo, a rural area about 3 hours north of the capital lome. it is actually the second largest hospital in the country. on arrival in lome, the hospital had arranged a redundant “welcomer” to meet us prior to customs. she directed us to the wrong line, and then when customs guards asked for a bribe for one of our suitcases, advised us to pay it. we refused, and they eventually let us through without it.

in togo, good medical care is very hard to come by, so the services hbb provides are much appreciated. people in togo must generally pay up front for any hospital services, including emergent ones. even motor vehicle accident victims – even if obviously wealthy – are not resuscitated in emergency rooms until the medical providers are paid, leading to countless preventable deaths. widespread frustration over these practices are one of many drivers of recent protests against the autocratic government. hbb is unique in that they treat any presenting emergent patients first, then ask for payment later. they also supply medicines and supplies for inpatients, which contrasts with most hospitals in the country which require patients or their families to provide supplies and medicines, which they need to buy at markets outside the hospital. all the physicians at hbb are western missionaries (which makes it a good place to learn for a resident such as myself), though there are a staff of togolese physician assistants who see many of the patients in clinic and are the first call overnight. physicians, including myself while i am here, act more as consultants overnight, and do rounds on inpatients and see clinic patients during the day. everyone in the area are subsistence farmers, such that even just the meager salaries of the physician assistants and nurses have essentially created a middle class in the area. most of the locals are people belonging to the ewe tribe, which stretches across the west african countries of benin, togo, ghana and others. there are other tribes in the area as well, such as the fulani, who are more nomadic cattle herders and have their own language. they often come by the hospital, are told how much something like a small surgery will cost, leave, and come back a week or two later with the money, which is often a lot for this part of the world. we had one little fulani feeder-grower premature baby who had been there for weeks, requiring a special high-calorie formula and an incubator. every day it was someone’s job to explain to the grandmother why the baby needed to stay until they reached a certain weight, because they wouldn’t survive life on the road at their size.

local monkey, tsiko

i have seen some very interesting medical cases thus far. by far the most common diagnosis is malaria, which often causes severe anemia requiring blood transfusion and extreme splenomegaly. this is the diagnosis for well over half of the admissions. many children also get cerebral malaria which can cause altered mentation, seizures and coma/death. one of my patients died recently from this, likely a brain herniation. typhoid fever is also very common. one child had an intestinal perforation secondary to typhoid, which is a common complication. intestinal amoebiasis is also very common, as are hookworms which are often visible just beneath the skin. impressively, the hospital has developed treatment guidelines for many of these prevalent conditions, so diagnosing and treating them as a tropical medicine novice has not been as challenging as i might have expected before arriving here. there are also a large number of developmentally challenged children who present to the clinic, some already many months old, who have never been diagnosed and have never seen a medical provider before. many have traveled long distances, often even from neighboring countries, to come the hospital because of its reputation. sadly, most of the time there is not much we can do.

a common theme of medicine in the developing world is that people just take longer to present, so their pathology becomes more extreme. i saw a boy the other day whose toothache one year ago developed into indolent osteomyelitis of his jaw, completely reforming the shape of his face over the last year. likewise, many patients with cancer present very late with huge masses. because of the continued strong animism here, some children have scars from cutting attempts by local traditional healers for things like abdominal distension. many people also take “herbs” given to them by these healers, some of which the hospital staff are realizing cause liver failure and resultant uncontrolled bleeding from coagulopathy. there are also many premature infants, often born via caesarean, many of whom die because there are no ventilators if they have respiratory distress. there is the capacity to provide non-invasive positive pressure, however, and it is amazing how well some of them do. there are other cool work-arounds, like giving premature babies nescaffe instant coffee powder in their feeds instead of pharmaceutical caffeine to stimulate their respiration!

pediatrics ward, hospital baptiste biblique, tsiko, togo
emergency department, hospital baptiste biblique, tsiko, togo
typical house around tsiko
termite mound, tsiko
i’m not the only runner!

a day in casablanca

hassan II mosque, casablanca, morocco

on out flight to togo we had a 16 hour layover in casablanca, morocco! i had read something obscure online about the possibility of an airline-provided hotel for such layovers, and indeed, after a quick inquiry after arrival we were being whisked away to the three star “hotel relax” near the airport! after getting some sleep, we headed into the sprawling city of casablanca. before leaving we had watched the film casablanca to stoke us for the experience, though it isn’t particularly enlightening with regard to the city today. casablanca is a modern and huge city of about six million, honestly without a whole lot to see for a tourist. we went to the hassan II mosque, which is a massive and ornate mosque, the largest in morocco, on the atlantic. it was completed only within the last decade or so, and was built using different types of marble and rock from all the corners of morocco. notably, it also has the world’s tallest minaret. we then stopped by morocco’s largest mall before heading back to the airport. solid layover! then a short stop-over in cotonou, benin before touching down in togo!

hassan II mosque, casablanca
morocco mall, casablanca
tagine #1 of many! casablanca

shanghai!

shanghai, china
shanghai
shanghai
shanghai
shanghai
nanjing road, shanghai
shanghai
shanghai
hurt so good for days! shanghai
the only maglev train in the world, shanghai
a place of beauty, shanghai

lisbon

finishing our honeymoon in lisbon, portugal

on the way home from our honeymoon we had about 24 hours in lisbon. we had booked a private room in a hostel, but found it to be a private, big room in a hostel with about 10 tiny bunk beds all to ourselves, lol! we walked around and got some good food and ice cream.

our private hostel room in lisbon
ice cream in lisbon

honeymoon!

gran canaria, spain

ann and i got married and it was amazing!

we went on our honeymoon to the canary islands! specifically the island of gran canaria. we spent the first night in the capital of las palmas, then, with our rented car, drove up into the central mountains to a town called tejeda for a few nights. the town had a public swimming pool which everyone was at.

tejeda, gran canaria
tejeda town swimming pool

on the last day we went down to the beach at maspalomas. an amazing honeymoon with an even more amazing woman; i love you ann!

nicaragua!

sunset from pelican eyes, san juan del sur, nicaragua

i had a short layover in panama city, just short enough to step outside the airport and breathe the humid air. unfortunate that i wasn’t able to spend some quality time there as i had planned due to accidently missing the previous day’s flight from mexico city. then, it was on to managua, nicaragua for three days in paradise!

at the last minute, i had the realization that i could rent a car and make getting around the country much easier and more fun, so i did it! it was a tiny little old compact with a manual transmission, and it was perfect! i headed first to granada, the main tourist destination in the country and the colonial capital, arriving at around one am. i had read lots about numerous police roadblocks at which bribes may be demanded, but i only encountered one and they just waived me through after examining my driver’s license for an inordinate period of time. i stayed at a cheap and very nice hotel on the outskirts of granada called hotel estacion antigua granada, which had great little breakfasts and local coffee in the courtyard!

on the first day, i decided to go on a little roadtrip to leon, the main city in the north of nicaraugua. throughout nicaragua’s history, its capital has alternated between the more conservative granada and the more liberal leon. it only recently was moved to managua as a political compromise, which is now a huge, cement urban aggomeration that i circumvented. on the road to leon, i stopped at a little town on a lake where people come from miles around to eat the specialty cheese curds. leon is full of fascinating political murals, as they strongly supported the sandinista regime in their efforts to resist the americans in nicaragua’s relatively recent civil war. there is a museum of myths and martyrs, with a larger than life replica of a rebel throwing a grenade, across the street from a church that was partially destroyed by a recent earthquake. in the center of town there is large, beautiful cathedral in front of a bustling parque centrale, and there was even a wedding occurring! every town in nica has a central park, often with a communal party atmosphere, and it is a great place to hang out.

leon, nicaragua
resistance murals, leon
leon
leon

i spent the next day in and around granada. granada is on the largest lake in central america, lake cocibolca. interestingly, it is a potential location for another canal between the pacific and the caribbean. the united states has held the exclusive rights to build such a canal for the past 100 years, which they have not acted upon to protect the monopoly of the panama canal. the lease recently expired, however, and a chinese company now has the nicaraguan exclusive lease and are planning to build a rival canal! the city of granada has many colonial buildings, including some great churches. one has a spire you can climb for a nice view. being a major tourist town, another highlight is the great food. i had steaks for dinner twice for an excellent price, on a pedestrian street with live performers. great ambiance.

in the afternoon i took a drive to the masaya volcano, an amazing wonder near granada. you drive up about five kilometers up a mountain, through moon-like terrain of lava-turned-rock. you then arrive at the cusp of the simmering active volcano, and can peer into the huge crater at top, from which sulfurous smoke is constantly billowing. large signs are present, denoting a maximum viewing time of five minutes. apparently a few years ago a large chunk of rock the size of a car flew out of the cone and totaled an italian tourist’s car. it was a very fascinating place, probably my favorite of the trip. then i drove to a little town called catarina, which overlooks the laguna de appoyo, a massive defunct volcano crater filled with fresh water. the view from catarina was amazing, and many hundreds of locals thought so as well, filling bleachers to watch the sun set over the lake, with snack and drink stalls on offer as well. after the sun set, i drove on a little dirt track down into the crater to a hotel on the lakefront, and had a nice swim with a group from china. great day!

granada, nicaragua
laguna appoya, nicaragua
looking down into masaya volcano, near granada, nicaragua

the next day i drove two hours south, along lake cocibolca. to the left was a large island in the lake called ometepe, which is composed of two huge volcanoes! all along the coast of the lake are massive new wind turbines, making nicaragua’s electricity. i continued driving south all the way the border of costa rica, which i wanted to step foot in! i parked near the border at a little roadside diner, and walked the rest of the way to the border. lines were a bit long, but the process was quite straightforward. after stepping foot in costa rica and taking a self-indulgent photo in front of the sign, got back to my rental car which had thankfully not disappeared in my absence, and headed west to an idyllic town called san juan del sur on the the nicaraguan pacific coast, which is famous with surfers. there, i ate some excellent ceviche and hung out on the beach. i hiked up the hill to a luxury property called the pelican eyes hotel, which has an infinity pool overlooking the bay. they let me chill by the pool for the sunset with just the purchase of a drink. very nice last day in nicaragua!

lake ometepe, nicaragua