we explored the ancient roman city of pompei, where the streets were frozen in time when the city was covered in lava by the precipitous eruption of nearby mount vesuvius, which still towers menacingly over the ruins. it takes hours to fully explore the site, so bring some water!
naples
we took the fast train (1 hour) from rome to naples, where we spent a full day. it is known as a gritty, densely congested city still run by the mafia, and it was very fun to explore. amazing narrow streets throughout, including via san gregorio, or christmas alley, where artisans built ornate nativity scenes called presepe. there are also a number of underground tunnels in naples, which among other uses, were used as shelters during world war two.
rome
ann and i spent 2 days in rome! and then i stayed another 2 days to see more things! for my birthday, ann got us an airbnb guided tour of some of the catacombs in rome. an american tour guide/aspiring comedian took us to the capuchin crypts, which are amazing underground collections of human bones which were made into evocative displays by the capuchin monastic order. he also took us to st. clement basilica which has layers of underground history.
centrale montemartini, rome
centrale montemartini is museum of ancient roman statues housed in a former thermal power plant. the resultant juxtaposition is mesmerizing!
altar of the fatherland, rome
this white marble monument to nationalism seems a bit out of place amidst the surrounding ancient history in central rome, but it sure does look good.
papal basilica of st. paul, rome
this less-visited basilica in the south of rome hosts the tomb of st. paul, an amazing guilded gold ceiling, and some nice cloisters.
the vatican museum
the vatican museum is one of the world’s most impressive museums. while normally one must wait for hours in line to get in, this summer (due to the covid pandemic) i just showed up and walked right in. apparently that hasn’t been the case since the 1960s. it was even possible to take pictures of parts of the floor with the sparseness of tourists!
st. peter’s basilica
this place is as awe inspiring as a church can get.
the roman colosseum
wow – it was remarkable to see the roman colosseum in person. it was definitely worth paying the little extra to get the view from the ground floor level.
papal basilica of santa maria maggiore, rome
the papal basilica of santa maria maggiore in rome is an impressive 5th century church.