after two successive full days at the chocholaw and bukovina thermal pool complexes near zakopane, i had not quite immersed my body in enough hot water or sat in enough saunas (though i was getting close). i read about a just-opened massive aquapark (the largest in europe) called suntago, outside of warsaw. i had to go. this complex was unbelievable – built to be a destination in itself so poles don’t feel the need to fly to the tropics for a warm weather vacation. it had a huge sauna zone, salt water shipped in from the dead sea, palms imported from egypt, etc. indescribable!