what a funtastically fascinating country! kosovo declared independence in 2008, after obtaining united nations protected autonomy after the big nato intervention in 1999. but the serbs still consider kosovo to be part of serbia. so talk about political intricacies and complicated animosities, eh? although independent, one gets the impression that the place is still basically run by the unmik (united nations mission in kosovo). they have a huge complex in downtown pristina. i saw the “newborn” monument, which was unveiled at the announcement of independence and has become something of a symbol of nationalism. its a series of huge yellow letters that spell “newborn,” and it is covered in the signatures of kosovo’s youth. also, the library at the university of pristina, whose unique design has been aptly described as “simultaneously outrageous and beautiful.”
kosovo is definitely on the developing end of the spectrum. the smells and the sights are evocative of a place struggling to survive. i stayed in the only hostel in town, which is run by a hunchbacked former university electronics professor who speaks impeccable english (pretty rare in kosovo). there are lots of mosques (albanian/muslim majority), and a recently begun serbian orthodox church that has come to be known as a symbol of serbian arrogance and spite: it was a target of vandalism and anti-serbian hate graffiti, the u.n. had to move in with force to protect it, and apparently the serbian orthodox church isn’t going to rest until its finished. oh and kosovo absolutely loves bill clinton. they named a street after him, and put up a statue as well as a three story tall mural of his face. can’t blame them – he saved them from the genocidal slobodan milosevic.
not to tell just one side of the story though, there were innocent serbs who lived in kosovo who now can’t go back for fear of their lives. just a sad situation all around. actually, there are still serb enclaves in kosovo, and they basically don’t answer to any national government.
next, on to macedonia!